Mock-ups are supposed to help you refine your pattern, whether you are modifying an existing one or designing something from scratch. I thought I knew how to improve my miniature nightgown pattern which is based on a Renaissance chemise but with each change I made, things just got worse.
To fix my “happy arms” problem, I switched to a non-slippery cotton fabric and adjusted the angle of the sleeve relative to the body. It didn’t help. Nor did turning the gathering into pleats.
Take 4 felt like a huge step backward. I don’t know if the problem is the pattern, my sewing technique, or both, but when I saw what I had made, I knew it was time to try something different.
All along, I’ve been treating this chemise as a piece of clothing, but in fact, it is a prop for a miniature scene. It doesn’t have to fit onto a doll. It just has to look like a nightgown.
I decided to move from the Renaissance back to the Middle Ages. I was inspired by Morgan Donner’s medieval shift, which starts with rectangles then adds triangles for more room in the body.
This change lead to take 5, which was a huge leap forward. Suddenly, I had something that looked mostly like a nightgown. Thank goodness! The increasingly awful chemises had me questioning my skills in a big way.* Now I have a pattern I can move ahead with, fairly confident I will eventually wind up with a nightgown like the one I’ve been imagining.
*I still do not know what I did wrong. If you have a clue, please tell me. I’d love to know.
Top of sleeve should be rounded with an outside curve not a valley. Ease sleeve into arm hole by gently gathering and easing the gathers out before sewing. Remove the pins and hand paste the sleeve. I think you are cutting the armpit to tight.
If you have a REUSE store or Thrift shop, look for a sewing pattern doesn’t matter what size. Look at the shape of the pieces for the sleeves and body of the garment top. Downsize until you get the size you need. I recommend hand sewing for doll size. Made a medieval doll for French Class in high school. Used what was probably a Barbie sized doll. I used heavy drape tapestry. A thinner fabric would have been easier but it wouldn’t had had the right flavor. Made a hat and pair of shoes as well. Nobody told me I couldn’t do it.
My hats off to you! Sewing clothing from tapestry at 1/6th scale must have been a challenge. I think it’s important not to have anyone get in the way of our vision with their petty concerns about what is feasible. 😉
The chemise pattern doesn’t have a fitted sleeve; the curve in the top of the sleeve is part of the neckline. I didn’t want to have to fit a sleeve that small, which was why I was trying other things. I agree that there is something seriously wrong with the underarm.
I started out sewing by hand. My seams were soft (I don’t know how else to explain it) and didn’t press well, but I do sew by hand when I can just because I enjoy it.
Thanks for taking the time to share your experience!